This is to help anyone who is looking for the best place to stay in Peniche. I’ll say right now that it’s not a totally unbiased review of the area, but rather a chance for me to sing the praises of the little village of Ferrel where we are located. If you head north from Peniche, follow the bay to Baleal and then turn right, you will very quickly be in Ferrel.
Wake up near the waves
Open your window here in the mornings and sometimes you can hear the ocean (you can see it too actually, because much of Ferrel is on a slight slope). But it doesn’t come from one direction, rather it surrounds you, and that’s probably because we’re bordered on two sides by the ocean, Baleal to the west and Almagreira to the north. It’s a little more than 1km to both, which really isn’t very far. It’s perfectly walkable. And compared to the many hours that you will spend frolicking on the golden sand, what’s a 20 minute stroll?
And make no mistake, these are world class beaches. Having spent many days at many beaches in many countries, I can say these are some of the best. Huge expanses of sand that go for miles backed by dunes or stunning red sandstone cliffs. Put the camera down and enjoy them! And beyond the ones that you can walk to, there are about 10 that you can drive to within 10 minutes. It’s popular with Portuguese families for good reason, and is a surfers’ paradise too, with numerous surf schools and board rental places. I’ll leave the surf talk for another blog though.
Essential amenities
Ferrel is actually the closest village centre to the main beach at Baleal. Sure, Baleal itself is closer, but it’s much more spread out and doesn’t have a centre like Ferrel, so it’s not a village in the same sense. In Ferrel you can stroll down to a cafe, enjoy your morning coffee whilst watching the world go by and drop into the bakery on the way home. It’s got pharmacies, mini markets, butchers, hairdressers, a bank, a church and a post office. And a pet shop too, come to think of it.
Importantly, it’s also got a great selection of restaurants. I can think of 11 in Ferrel and you can walk to each one in less than ten minutes. Absolutely vital when considering the best place to stay! Even if you don’t mind being the designated driver it’s so much nicer to wander out to dinner on foot. Many places serve super fresh local seafood and other delicious traditional Portuguese food, but you can also get a great pizza and toasted sandwich. You know, in case you get bored of expertly cooked sea bass. We consider it our duty to be knowledgeable on local restaurants and so we visit them all regularly. It might be the best part of our job.
Real Portugal
The village is authentically Portuguese. Immaculately whitewashed houses topped with curvy terracotta tiles are brought to life by brightly coloured window borders that make no attempt to match their neighbours. A bustling main street offers restaurants, cafes and a small square with a perfectly maintained church. Two bakeries, the hubs of the community, serve sandwiches that often steam when opened, the bread only just out of the oven.
This is a thriving, year round community. Many people in the village work on the surrounding farms, or in trades, or in the conveniences in the village. It takes on a different feel in the busy summer months but it’s always authentic. That’s not important for everyone of course, but for some it is. It’s more peaceful than Baleal’s beachfront during the summer, and more alive in the quiet winter months. It also has a couple of festivals – in August and October – which are brilliant all age affairs.
Summary
For an authentic experience close to the waves, with plenty of peace and quiet and all essential amenities on your doorstep, try Ferrel. We think it’s the combination of authentic village life and nearby beaches that make it the best place to stay in Peniche. There are plenty of small guest houses to choose from, including our own!
by Clare
